Fausto Puglisi wanted his Fall/Winter 14 line to be “wife and mistress” at the same time.
The designer was the last to show on the first day of Milan Fashion Week yesterday. He eschewed the muted colour palette often associated with the season, going for bold hues and geometric prints which clashed.
“It’s ladylike and young; it’s wife and mistress at the same time; chic and shock; sophisticated and a little bit vulgar,” he explained, according to WWD.
There were two main colour schemes: black, ivory and red or purple, black and turquoise.
The former featured on a demure knee-length slim-fitting dress with long sleeves. It might otherwise have looked pretty standard, but the triangular geometric patterned ensured it was a fresh take on the look. Seven of the large shapes stretched down the front of the frock, each in one of the colours. To ensure all eyes were on the design, the model’s blonde hair was loose around her shoulders and her make-up was kept barely there in what is surely one of the key looks of the season.
The same dress was also shown with a matching coat which fell to the same length as the frock. The look was eye-catching in the extreme, not least because of the lilac pointed pumps on the model’s feet.
Many of the turquoise, purple and black looks were graphic, with tailoring one of the key looks. A mini-dress boasted a flared skirt which jutted out over the hips in black and pale blue, with the spaghetti strap top in purple. There was also a pair of leggings in all three colours – again featuring the triangle pattern – which were teamed with a tux jacket. The piece was updated thanks to the lapels, as one was purple and the other turquoise.
Alberta Ferretti also showed yesterday but stuck to a more traditional set of colours. Her pieces were green, burnt orange, dark red and chocolate brown which reflected her inspiration perfectly.
“I imagined animated woods, where nature embraced the body of a woman,” she explained.
Embellishment was big news on the catwalk, with textures mixed too so a brocade jacket had a fur trim around the collar.
Appliqué was also used liberally, with birds sewn on to dresses and knitted into sweaters.
Gucci’s Frida Giannini wanted to create pieces for real women, so tailoring was one of the big looks. An example would be a light blue pea coat with silver buttons and rolled cuffs which was worn over a green blouse and slim fitting jeans. The palette was interesting too – pastels have been a huge look over the last couple of seasons and Gucci stuck to the theme for Fall/Winter 14 too.
The shows continue today with presentations from Max Mara, Fendi, Just Cavalli and Prada.
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