David Koma is Thierry Mugler’s new artistic director.
In April it was confirmed that Nicola Formichetti was leaving his role with the brand after just two years to work with Diesel.
Today, the French company will confirm that British-based designer Koma is to take the reins.
“We want to write a new page for Mugler, putting it back on the map in the fashion business,” director of development, marketing and communications at Mugler, Virginie Courtin-Clarins, told WWD.
“We have the potential to modernise it and I think the potential is huge.”
Koma will start in his new position on January 2 and his first designs will be seen in the June resort line. In September, he will make his Mugler runway debut at Paris Fashion Week.
The designer is known for his structured and form-fitting dresses, one of the reasons he got the job. Bosses at Mugler feel his aesthetic fits well with the brand, although is also different enough for him to take the company in a new direction.
Koma’s arrival is part of a new plan for the label.
“We agreed that we wanted a real couturier,” she explained. “We feel we need to focus on the product, and that’s why we’re starting with the pre-collection.
“We are very focused now on wholesale. We have an existing clientele, and we are going to grow the distribution in a strategic way.”
This means the label will be creating wearable pieces for fashion fans, rather than options which are too image-focused.
For Koma the job is a dream come true, as it was a documentary about Mugler that first stoked his interest in fashion.
“I recorded it and watched it again and again. I was completely blown away,” he said of the experience aged 12. “I think the style is very distinctive and very powerful.
“In general, the anatomic approach to pattern-cutting and the sculptural nature of the female form is one of the key elements with my designs.”
Koma already has a strong celebrity following, having dressed the likes of Beyoncé Knowles and Rihanna in the past.
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