Christopher Kane will show his first full leather goods collection at London Fashion Week today.
The Scottish designer is gearing up to present his Fall/Winter 14 line, his first since it was confirmed Kering has taken a stake in his company.
Among the offering will be eight bags, which were produced in Italy. They are made from alligator and python, among others, and some boast a buckle fastening, which Christopher sees as his signature.
“I thought [our first bag line] should really reflect where the Christopher Kane collections began,” he told WWD.
“The safety buckle is a motif from that [Spring/Summer 07] collection, and is something I like to return to, as are the oversized, plastic zips.
“Neon colour is another of our signatures from early on that reoccurs. Then there is the angular influence of the cutting from Spring/Summer 12. Each of these elements has marked an important moment in time for me and for our collections.”
Black, grey, pink and dark brown dominate the line, which also boasts fashionable hand-stitching.
A number of big names showed in London over the weekend, with J.W. Anderson, House of Holland and Julien Macdonald all taking to the runway on Saturday.
Yesterday saw presentations from the likes of Sophia Webster, Richard Nicoll and Marios Schwab.
Mary Katrantzou’s Fall/Winter 14 offering was one of the final shows of the day and was as intricate as has come to be expected. Last season she stepped away from the bright patterns she has become known for and went monochrome, and this time around she switched things up again. The palette was muted, with burgundy, grey, deep green and silver all big news. The fabrics were a marvel, with embroidery featuring on many, and others having the stitches placed on top of appliqué.
Mary explained just how much work had gone into the collection.
“There are 750,000 stitches in one of those lace dresses,” she told Fashionista.com. “We worked with a Swiss mill to create it and from start to finish it took 20 days to make – actually we are lucky it even arrived in time for the show.
“It felt very new to me because that craftsmanship – even though it existed in previous collections – wasn’t our main focus before. Because we had pared back the silhouette we could concentrate completely on the intricacies of each look.”
So rather than the iconic lampshade dresses and skirts it was tailoring which was prolific this time around. One example was a dark blue jacquard trouser suit, with ankle-scraping trousers and a metallic silver sheen added to the pattern.
Also going in a new direction was Matthew Williamson, who ditched the figure-hugging aesthetic he is best known for. That was replaced with a looser look, with A-line dresses well-cut trenches all coming down the runway. Embellishment was one of his biggest trends, as crystals appeared on everything from mohair sweater to sunglasses and leggings. Fur and feathers were also huge looks, with one model donning a pair of embellished leggings, monochrome patterned sweater and a giant, knee-length flurry blue and red fur coat.
Last of the day was Jonathan Saunders, who brought the rounded, drop shoulder coats, which were so prolific in New York, across the pond. The colour scheme wasn’t easy to pinpoint, with red, blue, brown and yellow all getting a look in. Pattern was also a key look, with a diamond motif featuring on trousers, skirts and tops.
The London shows continue today, with Antonio Berardi, Erdem, Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford all presenting.
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